The back story
Wild Bangkok: Monitor Lizards, Wetlands and Khao Yai
Water monitors in Lumphini and the forests of Khao Yai.
Photo Credit
Image courtesy of © istolethetv · CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia CommonsThe natural side of Bangkok, from the water monitor lizards of Lumphini Park and the wetlands of Benjakitti Forest Park to Khao Yai National Park and its UNESCO-listed forest, with a directory of the parks in our guide and a link to our Thai Islands wildlife feature.
Bangkok grew from a city of canals and orchards into one of concrete and expressways, and its green spaces became precious. They are also surprisingly wild: in Lumphini Park, in the heart of the business district, large water monitor lizards swim in the lakes and bask on the lawns, and the new wetlands of Benjakitti spread reeds and water within sight of the towers.
This is a short, honest guide to Bangkok’s natural side: the parks, the wetlands and the great forest a few hours north-east. For the reefs, turtles and rainforests of the islands, our Thai Islands guide takes over.
The lizards of Lumphini
Lumphini Park, between Rama IV and Ratchadamri roads, is Bangkok’s great green heart, open from 4.30am to 9pm. Its lakes are home to water monitor lizards, which swim between the islands, haul out on the banks and walk unhurriedly across the paths among the joggers. They are wild animals and best left alone: watch them from a few metres away, and never feed them.
Benjakitti’s wetlands
From Lumphini, an elevated green walkway leads east to Benjakitti Park, where a lake, wetlands and raised walkways make a new urban forest; it opens from 5am to 9pm. Come at dawn, when the light is soft and the waterbirds are busiest among the reeds.
Photo Credit
Image courtesy of © Supanut Arunoprayote · CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia CommonsFeature: Khao Yai
North-east of Bangkok, Khao Yai National Park protects a great expanse of forest, waterfalls and grasslands, part of the Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. It is a long day trip or, better, a night or two from the city; the park’s own website has the visitor information.
Photo Credit
Image courtesy of © JJ Harrison · CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia CommonsDid you know? Khao Yai is part of the Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In the middle of Bangkok, monitor lizards sun themselves beside the boating lake.
Our advice
Our advice: walk Lumphini at dawn, when the lizards are out and the city is cool, then follow the green walkway to Benjakitti. Keep a respectful distance from the monitors, never feed any animal, and carry water. For Khao Yai, stay a night near Pak Chong and go into the park early.
Why it's on our list
- The lizards of Lumphini
- Benjakitti’s wetlands
- Feature: Khao Yai
- Our advice
Location
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