Temples and golden spires: the historic heart of Rattanakosin, the back story

About Temples and golden spires: the historic heart of Rattanakosin, the back story

By the ULTIMATE Bangkok Editorial Team

Editor-in-Chief: Jai Michael

Rattanakosin, the island in the bend of the Chao Phraya, has been the ceremonial heart of Bangkok since the city became the capital in 1782. Within a short walk lie the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho with its Reclining Buddha and its school of Thai massage, and, a few minutes across the river by ferry, Wat Arun.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew

Behind the white walls on Na Phra Lan Road, the Grand Palace compound holds the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), the most revered temple in the country, and the halls of the palace itself. Tickets are sold from 8:30am to 3:30pm, and the entry fee for foreign visitors is 500 baht (TAT; royalgrandpalace.th). The palace closes at short notice for ceremonies: check the official site before you go.

Wat Pho

South of the palace, Wat Pho (Wat Phra Chetuphon) is home to the great Reclining Buddha, covered in gold leaf, and to Thailand’s best-known school of traditional massage, whose pavilions sit within the temple grounds. TAT lists its hours as 8:30am to 7:30pm and the fee for foreign visitors as 300 baht.

Arrive at the Grand Palace when the ticket office opens, then cross to Wat Arun for the afternoon light.

Wat Arun

From Tha Tien pier, beside Wat Pho, a small ferry crosses to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, whose central prang is encrusted with pieces of Chinese porcelain. TAT gives its hours as 8am to 6pm, with a 200-baht fee for foreign visitors. It is at its finest from the opposite bank at sunset.

Visiting with respect

These are working places of worship. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and take your shoes off before entering the halls. Speak quietly, never point your feet towards an image of the Buddha, and follow any instructions from the temple staff. Sarongs can usually be borrowed or bought at the entrance, but it is simpler to arrive dressed for the visit.

Timing

Go early: the morning is cooler and calmer, and the palace stops selling tickets mid-afternoon. Ignore anyone outside who tells you a site is closed and offers to take you elsewhere; check the official sites instead.

Our advice: the Grand Palace at 8:30, Wat Pho by 11, lunch, then the ferry to Wat Arun and sunset drinks on the old-city bank.

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with Temples and golden spires: the historic heart of Rattanakosin, the back story before you go.